Jakarta is a city that assaults the senses in the best way possible. It is hot, it is loud, and the traffic is legendary. But cut through the humidity and the exhaust fumes, and you will find the true perfume of the city: the smell of charcoal smoke fanned over grilling chicken, the sizzle of woks hitting high heat, and the sweet aroma of roasting dough.
For the uninitiated, Jakarta can feel intimidating. The city is a sprawling megalopolis of 10 million people, a melting pot of cultures from across the Indonesian archipelago. While the gleaming malls of Grand Indonesia or Plaza Senayan offer air-conditioned comfort and international chains, the soul of Jakarta lives on the street.
The street food vendors, known locally as Kaki Lima (literally “five legs,” referring to the three wheels of the cart plus the two legs of the vendor), offer some of the most complex, …
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